Going across the (old) Severn Bridge:
Is this a warning or an instruction?
Monday, 28 May 2007
Some pics
M kindly took several snaps of me when we met down in the Wye Valley. Some of them are quite good.
Going across the (old) Severn Bridge:
Is this a warning or an instruction?
Going across the (old) Severn Bridge:
Is this a warning or an instruction?
The End
As most of you may have gathered by other sources, I made it to John O'Groats, at about 2pm on Wednesday. The surprise was that my mother turned up, all the way from Sussex, which meant I had champagne (which we didn't drink) and some photos of me arriving.
Day 12 (Wed 23/05/07)
Helmsdale to John O'Groats
Day Miles 54
Total miles 958
I joked the night before that I hadn't needed any of the four inner tubes I'd brought, and that I'd probably get four punctures on the last day. I didn't, but I got one 40 miles from the end, travelling downhill at 20mph. It wasn't a blowout, thankfully, but it was caused by a cheap inner tube supplied by the man in Dumfries who gave me a new wheel - the hole was right next to where the valve is glued to the tube. I changed the tube in 10 minutes, which was satisfying as it usually takes me much longer, and back on the road.
By that time I'd already passed the only significant obstacles on the way - deep valleys at Helmsdale and, notoriously, Berriedale. Even back down in Aviemore the doctor had joked to me about how hard I'd find Berriedale. Of course I didn't - I pushed my bike the whole way up. By this time I'd lost my lowest gear again, so it wasn't very feasible to cycle up it.
I then had problems with my saddle, which started swivelling about. As it's a sprung seat, the saddle post fits inside the main seat post which is attached to the frame. The connection between the first two had become worn, so that the saddle was just sitting inside the seat post. It made riding slightly more difficult - you steer essentially by using your hips to guide the bike, so if the seat swivels as you try to do this you lose some control. It wasn't critical, and I managed to get the 10 miles or so to Wick, where I found a man in a bike repair shop who did it for me for free.
The last stretch into John O'Groats from Wick is quite exposed, with strong cross-winds, and a little hill just before the end too, which is a touch frustrating. But from the top of the hill there's a great view of Orkney - I'm not sure when I'll next have an opportunity to go there, so it was a shame I couldn't this time.
There's a nice long freewheel down the hill into John O'Groats, which is just a small collection of buildings around a tiny ferry harbour. There's no fanfare to greet you - 4000 people do this annually, I was passed on the road by a couple of guys (on good bikes, with only one pannier each (Mummy had turned up to take some of their luggage)), I met one at the end, and as I was leaving 6 in identical clothes streamed in, having probably done it in under a week. As one of my guidebooks says, don't expect a pat on the back from the landlord of the Groats Inn, he gets a dozen people a day in. He was mostly moaning about how it rains every day from September to April.
I didn't have any sense of euphoria or relief when I arrived. I suppose the arrival of my mother added an unexpected domesticity, but I think I'd already factored it in by then - when you spend days trying to achieve something, but know for the last two or three that you are going to make it, then the final arrival doesn't feel like such a huge achievement. I wasn't staggering over the line in exhaustion or pain, as in a marathon, and it's not as if the destination is stunningly beautiful (apart from the pleasant view of the Orkneys) as when you climb a mountain. I was a tiny bit underwhelmed, and just looking forward to the train ride home.
Here's some pics of me arriving:
I didn't cycle back to Wick in the end - the bus could take bikes, and I wasn't too keen on 17 miles back into the wind, so we hung around JoG in a cafe for a couple of hours until the bus left. It wasn't due to lack of energy though - my mother was surprised that I was so lively, but I'd only done 54 miles that day so still had plenty of miles left in me.
After a couple of drinks and sitting around I was pretty tired, and only managed to watch half of the Champions League Final that night, falling asleep at 9pm (and waking up at 5.30am) The journey back from Wick was long but not unpleasant - 4 hours to Inverness, another 3.5 to Edinburgh, then 4.5 hours to London, then I had a 4 mile ride back home from King's X (along the Marylebone Road, which I still consider one of the more dangerous roads in the country)
I now have access to plenty of pics, so I'll put some of those up, and also draw my route out properly.
Day 12 (Wed 23/05/07)
Helmsdale to John O'Groats
Day Miles 54
Total miles 958
I joked the night before that I hadn't needed any of the four inner tubes I'd brought, and that I'd probably get four punctures on the last day. I didn't, but I got one 40 miles from the end, travelling downhill at 20mph. It wasn't a blowout, thankfully, but it was caused by a cheap inner tube supplied by the man in Dumfries who gave me a new wheel - the hole was right next to where the valve is glued to the tube. I changed the tube in 10 minutes, which was satisfying as it usually takes me much longer, and back on the road.
By that time I'd already passed the only significant obstacles on the way - deep valleys at Helmsdale and, notoriously, Berriedale. Even back down in Aviemore the doctor had joked to me about how hard I'd find Berriedale. Of course I didn't - I pushed my bike the whole way up. By this time I'd lost my lowest gear again, so it wasn't very feasible to cycle up it.
I then had problems with my saddle, which started swivelling about. As it's a sprung seat, the saddle post fits inside the main seat post which is attached to the frame. The connection between the first two had become worn, so that the saddle was just sitting inside the seat post. It made riding slightly more difficult - you steer essentially by using your hips to guide the bike, so if the seat swivels as you try to do this you lose some control. It wasn't critical, and I managed to get the 10 miles or so to Wick, where I found a man in a bike repair shop who did it for me for free.
The last stretch into John O'Groats from Wick is quite exposed, with strong cross-winds, and a little hill just before the end too, which is a touch frustrating. But from the top of the hill there's a great view of Orkney - I'm not sure when I'll next have an opportunity to go there, so it was a shame I couldn't this time.
There's a nice long freewheel down the hill into John O'Groats, which is just a small collection of buildings around a tiny ferry harbour. There's no fanfare to greet you - 4000 people do this annually, I was passed on the road by a couple of guys (on good bikes, with only one pannier each (Mummy had turned up to take some of their luggage)), I met one at the end, and as I was leaving 6 in identical clothes streamed in, having probably done it in under a week. As one of my guidebooks says, don't expect a pat on the back from the landlord of the Groats Inn, he gets a dozen people a day in. He was mostly moaning about how it rains every day from September to April.
I didn't have any sense of euphoria or relief when I arrived. I suppose the arrival of my mother added an unexpected domesticity, but I think I'd already factored it in by then - when you spend days trying to achieve something, but know for the last two or three that you are going to make it, then the final arrival doesn't feel like such a huge achievement. I wasn't staggering over the line in exhaustion or pain, as in a marathon, and it's not as if the destination is stunningly beautiful (apart from the pleasant view of the Orkneys) as when you climb a mountain. I was a tiny bit underwhelmed, and just looking forward to the train ride home.
Here's some pics of me arriving:
I didn't cycle back to Wick in the end - the bus could take bikes, and I wasn't too keen on 17 miles back into the wind, so we hung around JoG in a cafe for a couple of hours until the bus left. It wasn't due to lack of energy though - my mother was surprised that I was so lively, but I'd only done 54 miles that day so still had plenty of miles left in me.
After a couple of drinks and sitting around I was pretty tired, and only managed to watch half of the Champions League Final that night, falling asleep at 9pm (and waking up at 5.30am) The journey back from Wick was long but not unpleasant - 4 hours to Inverness, another 3.5 to Edinburgh, then 4.5 hours to London, then I had a 4 mile ride back home from King's X (along the Marylebone Road, which I still consider one of the more dangerous roads in the country)
I now have access to plenty of pics, so I'll put some of those up, and also draw my route out properly.
Wednesday, 23 May 2007
Getting on my Wick
So, it's a race to get there before either my bike or my body falls apart. So far this morning I've had a puncture, and my seat's falling off, but I'm in Wick with only 17 miles to go.
Day 11 (22/05/07)
Carrbridge to Helmsdale
Day miles 98
Total miles 904
To go 55
I didn't quite manage 80 miles from Inverness, but Helmsdale was the last decent sized town on the road before Wick 38 miles further on, and immediately after Helmsdale are a couple of very steep gradients which are better tackled in the morning than in the evening.
The road up from Inverness wasn't so scary. There was a cycle route (NCN1) for the first few miles, but then that diverted up north, and there was quite heavy traffic until past Tain, but after that a mostly flat road, following wind, and not much traffic. Fine weather too, the sea was very flat. The only slightly stressful bits were where the road occasionally veered west, into the wind, and across Cromarty Firth and another of the inlets, where there's a very strong crosswind.
Helmsdale is a small fishing village, with a couple of hotels (one full, one expensive) and some B&Bs. I checked into a B&B - they only had a family room (double bed, single bed, sofa) for £30, but as that was cheaper than the cheap hotel anyway, I took it.
My elbow definitely needs attention. I reckon I have ligament damage. There's no pain in usual use, but I can't put pressure on it or it pops out - not an actual dislocation I think, just a moving of the ligament. I'll go to St Mary's on Friday. I hope I don't need surgery. Never had an invasive procedure (no sniggering)
I left myself 55 miles to JO'G today, with 17 miles back to Wick afterwards. Now in Wick, so I'll be back in a few hours.
Day 11 (22/05/07)
Carrbridge to Helmsdale
Day miles 98
Total miles 904
To go 55
I didn't quite manage 80 miles from Inverness, but Helmsdale was the last decent sized town on the road before Wick 38 miles further on, and immediately after Helmsdale are a couple of very steep gradients which are better tackled in the morning than in the evening.
The road up from Inverness wasn't so scary. There was a cycle route (NCN1) for the first few miles, but then that diverted up north, and there was quite heavy traffic until past Tain, but after that a mostly flat road, following wind, and not much traffic. Fine weather too, the sea was very flat. The only slightly stressful bits were where the road occasionally veered west, into the wind, and across Cromarty Firth and another of the inlets, where there's a very strong crosswind.
Helmsdale is a small fishing village, with a couple of hotels (one full, one expensive) and some B&Bs. I checked into a B&B - they only had a family room (double bed, single bed, sofa) for £30, but as that was cheaper than the cheap hotel anyway, I took it.
My elbow definitely needs attention. I reckon I have ligament damage. There's no pain in usual use, but I can't put pressure on it or it pops out - not an actual dislocation I think, just a moving of the ligament. I'll go to St Mary's on Friday. I hope I don't need surgery. Never had an invasive procedure (no sniggering)
I left myself 55 miles to JO'G today, with 17 miles back to Wick afterwards. Now in Wick, so I'll be back in a few hours.
Tuesday, 22 May 2007
Pah, it's only a flesh wound..
You know the feeling when you're cycling along unconcerned, then your elbow pops out then back in again? You don't? I do.
As I suspected, I'd weakened my elbow by falling on my left arm on Saturday. It may just be ligament damage - I'm not sure that I dislocated it riding along yesterday, but it was a bit distracting. I saw a doctor in Aviemore, and she agreed with me that, as it doesn't hurt in normal use, I can just use tubigrip and get it seen to in London when I get back.
So, riding to John O'Groats is easy, I can do it one-handed...
Day 10 (21/05/07)
Pitlochry to Carrbridge
Day miles 67
Total miles 806
To go c 149
I didn't make it as far as Inverness last night, as I suspected. I left Pitlochry quite late, about midday, and took the cycle route (NCN7) which is largely made from remnants of the old A9. The first hour or so was quite hard, not just because of the various ailments, but because going up Glen Garry was a slight incline into a stiff headwind. I only went at about 9mph there, very dispiriting, but then when I turned a corner and went up the next glen, I had a slight downward incline and a good tailwind, and freewheeled at about 20mph for 15 miles or so. Great fun.
I'm in Inverness now, and only have stingy 15 minute slots on the PCs in their public library, so can't say much more. I'm deciding now whether to take the fearsome A9 or to try to work out a back route. I want to do about 80 more miles today (I've done about 27 so far), which will leave me say 40 to JO'G tomorrow, then 17 back to Wick. However, these mileages may vary if I take safer back routes.
As I suspected, I'd weakened my elbow by falling on my left arm on Saturday. It may just be ligament damage - I'm not sure that I dislocated it riding along yesterday, but it was a bit distracting. I saw a doctor in Aviemore, and she agreed with me that, as it doesn't hurt in normal use, I can just use tubigrip and get it seen to in London when I get back.
So, riding to John O'Groats is easy, I can do it one-handed...
Day 10 (21/05/07)
Pitlochry to Carrbridge
Day miles 67
Total miles 806
To go c 149
I didn't make it as far as Inverness last night, as I suspected. I left Pitlochry quite late, about midday, and took the cycle route (NCN7) which is largely made from remnants of the old A9. The first hour or so was quite hard, not just because of the various ailments, but because going up Glen Garry was a slight incline into a stiff headwind. I only went at about 9mph there, very dispiriting, but then when I turned a corner and went up the next glen, I had a slight downward incline and a good tailwind, and freewheeled at about 20mph for 15 miles or so. Great fun.
I'm in Inverness now, and only have stingy 15 minute slots on the PCs in their public library, so can't say much more. I'm deciding now whether to take the fearsome A9 or to try to work out a back route. I want to do about 80 more miles today (I've done about 27 so far), which will leave me say 40 to JO'G tomorrow, then 17 back to Wick. However, these mileages may vary if I take safer back routes.
Monday, 21 May 2007
What happened to my last post?
hmm, I wrote a very long post when in Carlisle, but it's not up, only the title. That's pretty annoying, especially as this is a record for me of what I've done. ok, to reconstruct it from memory...
Day Five (Wed 16/05/07)
Hereford to Chester
Day miles 95
Total miles 385
To go c 590
I got to Chester without major incident, and stayed in the youth hostel south of the city. It was packed - it was half term last week, so a lot of the hostels had young kids in it. No proper drying facilities for my gear, so another day of wet socks...
Day Six (Thu 17/05/07)
Chester to Morecambe
Day miles 93
Total miles 478
To go c 497
This was not a pleasant day. It rained for the first three hours, as I was trying to navigate my way through the Liverpool conurbation. I got lost in Runcorn - I was slightly consoled in this by reading that Phil Horsley, who wrote one of the better Lejog guides, also got lost there - and had trouble getting over the Runcorn Bridge (over the Mersey) at rush hour. The youth hostel didn't do breakfast early enough for my departure, and I ended up not having any until St Helens, after about 4 hours on the road. My left knee had also started hurting quite a bit, the rear ligament, which I know is the sort of strain that persists. That made the day a bit of a struggle, although there weren't many hills, and the A6 from Preston to Lancaster isn't so busy, and even has cycle lanes in part. I had intended to go as far as Arnside, on the edge of the Lake District, for that night, but when I rang ahead the YHA there was full, so I diverted over to Morecambe, along a well maintained cycle route from Lancaster, and stayed in a hotel on the front overlooking cocklepicker bay. Because of the persistent pain in my knee, I decided not to go through the Lake District, but to take the A6 skirting it.
Day Seven (Fri 18/05/07)
Morecambe to Lockerbie
Day miles 99
Total miles 577
To go c 398
My morbid tour of disaster locations continues...
The worst part of this day was going over Shap Fell in a 50mph cross-wind, with rain. Possibly the worst weather I've ever been out in, and far too dangerous to cycle in on a busy road. The freewheel down the other side was pretty precarious - wet and cold, and I staggered into a pub in Shap, at the bottom of the fell, desperate for a cup of tea to warm me up. The weather eased up a bit later - I got the worst of it just at the worst place to be - and I stopped for lunch in Penrith, a pretty market town, and then agin in Carlisle, where I wrote an extensive post which has been lost.
From Carlisle the direct route to Scotland goes on the A74, but as that is the link between two busy motorways, I avoided it and did a dogleg on the minor roads. Unfortunately this meant that I was coming into Scotland into a strong headwind, which seemed symbolic of something...
The road parallel to the A74 (M) is pretty flat and car free, as most of the traffic on the route is on the motorway. I got into Lockerbie around 8pm, to find there were no hotel rooms left, but there was a B&B, and I had a good dinner at one of the hotels, chatting to a yank from California who was touring Britain on a Harley (wimp) and who had forthright views on immigration and the death penalty. He was a firefighter and auxiliary policeman, so my vigorous debate with him was surprisingly restrained...
Day Eight (Sat 19/05/07)
Lockerbie to Hamilton (Glasgow)
Day miles 62
Total miles 639
To go c 336
A bit of a disaster today.
I've ridden for a few years in London, on some quite dangerous roads, and never even had a near miss. I've freewheeled at 35mph down rain-sodden mountain roads without a wobble. On Saturday at 8.30am I was riding along a deserted road, and diverted on to a cycle path alongside it. Across that path was a side road, which probably had one car an hour on it. The one car this hour arrived at the junction at the same time as me, coming along the cycle path with restricted view because of trees, and in the rain. I slammed on the brakes, the back wheel skidded, the front wheel locked and buckled, and I went over the handlebars. The car stopped well before it might have hit me, and in fact I stopped before the road, so the chances of a collision were small, but you make the decision to brake instantly.
So I had a buggered front wheel, and also a slightly bust left arm. I've previously had problems with this arm - I broke my elbow when I was 17, but the fracture wasn't noticed for about 3 years, after I'd dislocated it a few times, so it's always been weak. Landing on my outstretched arm as I did has definitely jarred the elbow. I'll have to see when I get back whether there's any deeper damage.
There was a house nearby with a very nice old man who agree to look after my bike and panniers while I hitched a lift into Dumfries for a new wheel. Luckily I was right on the junction with the Dumfries road, and even more luckily within 2 minutes of trying to hitch a car came by with two bikes on the roof rack - they were mountain bikers on their way to Dumfries. They gave me a very quick lift into town, I got a new wheel, and then a bus back to where my bike was.
Then the day got worse.Horrendous, blustery, showery weather all day, crosswinds, headwinds, hailstones in my face, everything. Dodgy knee, dodgy arm, a strained achilles tendon...it was a hell of a slog. By the time I got to Hamilton I'd already decided I wasn't going into Glasgow centre, never mind my original plan of getting beyond it up Loch Lomond, and I was considering altering my route drastically. I found a decent hotel on my route and checked in early, quite battered.
Amusingly, I got held up on the route by a young boys march (all big drums and flutes), with guys wearing 'No surrender' shirts. I think it was in Larkhall. The police wouldn't let me (or about 30 cars behind me) overtake the march, and I thought cycling through them might be a bit provocative...
So, a change of plan. Instead of going west via Loch Lomond, Glencoe and Fort William, I'd go east via Perth. That would save me about 45 miles, supposedly the weather was a bit better on the east side, and the hills not so extreme.
Day Nine (Sun 20/05/07)
Hamilton to Pitlochry
Day miles 100 (!)
Total miles 739
To go c 230
From the trip's worst day to the best. It didn't start off well. I woke up feeling bruised, and had a lie in (until 7.15am!), and the first hour or so on the road was very painful. I had aches or pains in my left elbow, left knee, left achilles, which made pedalling hard, and right wrist, which made changing gear hard. A tubigrip on the elbow and some ralgex on elbow and ankle helped things, as did the lack of traffic in the Glasgow suburbs early on a Sunday morning. I worked my way round via Motherwell and Airdrie (I only know these places as football teams), up past Cumbernauld, then got onto the Clyde and Forth canal, which was about 8 miles of flat towpath that took me towards Falkirk. Past the elegant Falkirk Wheel (I should link to it but don't have time), then towards the Kincardine Bridge.The weather brightened up significantly, and the road towards Perth was flat through countryside similar to Kent. My various pains were largely gone, although I couldn't put so much pressure on my left foot or left arm.
Out of Perth it's the A9 all the way to Wick. It's a pretty bog standard busy A road, very fast and unpleasant for cyclists, but parts of it do have NCN cycle routes. I took a diversion off, then took a break to try to sort my gears out. The rear derailleur wasn't finding one of the gears - the problem was actually in the handlebar thumbshift, which was worn out, but I didn't know that, and messed around with the gear cable (under expert telephone guidance from R), and ended up with a frayed cable I couldn't reattach. Had to lock the gears down and cycle the 15 miles into Pitlochry in one gear (well, 3 because of the front gears, but one of them is only useful when going downhill at 25mph)
That didn't matter so much as the ride into Pitlochry was stunning. I went through Dunkeld, a small town on the Tay, then followed an NCN cycle route from there to Pitlochry. It went through the forest and alongside the Tay for several miles, and it must be one of the most beautiful places in Britain I've been to. The weather was perfect, early evening, strong sun, and it was very peaceful - I came across a clearing cloaked with bluebells, which I'm sure my pic won't do justice to.
I got into Pitlochry quite late, having made 100 miles for the day, and found a B&B. This was a favourite Victorian resort town, so there are lots of old Victorian houses which are now hotels and B&Bs. My landlady generously gave me £20 in sponsorship (she's a Boer, and responded to me explaining what MSF do in Africa, although I wasn't touting for sponsorship, so it was a nice surprise)
Porridge and a fry-up including haggis this morning, although a late start due to getting the bike fixed, and updating this (I hope it works) A long ride to Inverness, 85 miles on the road, 101 miles on the cycle route. I'll probably get there late, but I may be able to phone ahead and reserve a room somewhere if I'm sure I can make it. Then it's the final run up to JoG.
Day Five (Wed 16/05/07)
Hereford to Chester
Day miles 95
Total miles 385
To go c 590
I got to Chester without major incident, and stayed in the youth hostel south of the city. It was packed - it was half term last week, so a lot of the hostels had young kids in it. No proper drying facilities for my gear, so another day of wet socks...
Day Six (Thu 17/05/07)
Chester to Morecambe
Day miles 93
Total miles 478
To go c 497
This was not a pleasant day. It rained for the first three hours, as I was trying to navigate my way through the Liverpool conurbation. I got lost in Runcorn - I was slightly consoled in this by reading that Phil Horsley, who wrote one of the better Lejog guides, also got lost there - and had trouble getting over the Runcorn Bridge (over the Mersey) at rush hour. The youth hostel didn't do breakfast early enough for my departure, and I ended up not having any until St Helens, after about 4 hours on the road. My left knee had also started hurting quite a bit, the rear ligament, which I know is the sort of strain that persists. That made the day a bit of a struggle, although there weren't many hills, and the A6 from Preston to Lancaster isn't so busy, and even has cycle lanes in part. I had intended to go as far as Arnside, on the edge of the Lake District, for that night, but when I rang ahead the YHA there was full, so I diverted over to Morecambe, along a well maintained cycle route from Lancaster, and stayed in a hotel on the front overlooking cocklepicker bay. Because of the persistent pain in my knee, I decided not to go through the Lake District, but to take the A6 skirting it.
Day Seven (Fri 18/05/07)
Morecambe to Lockerbie
Day miles 99
Total miles 577
To go c 398
My morbid tour of disaster locations continues...
The worst part of this day was going over Shap Fell in a 50mph cross-wind, with rain. Possibly the worst weather I've ever been out in, and far too dangerous to cycle in on a busy road. The freewheel down the other side was pretty precarious - wet and cold, and I staggered into a pub in Shap, at the bottom of the fell, desperate for a cup of tea to warm me up. The weather eased up a bit later - I got the worst of it just at the worst place to be - and I stopped for lunch in Penrith, a pretty market town, and then agin in Carlisle, where I wrote an extensive post which has been lost.
From Carlisle the direct route to Scotland goes on the A74, but as that is the link between two busy motorways, I avoided it and did a dogleg on the minor roads. Unfortunately this meant that I was coming into Scotland into a strong headwind, which seemed symbolic of something...
The road parallel to the A74 (M) is pretty flat and car free, as most of the traffic on the route is on the motorway. I got into Lockerbie around 8pm, to find there were no hotel rooms left, but there was a B&B, and I had a good dinner at one of the hotels, chatting to a yank from California who was touring Britain on a Harley (wimp) and who had forthright views on immigration and the death penalty. He was a firefighter and auxiliary policeman, so my vigorous debate with him was surprisingly restrained...
Day Eight (Sat 19/05/07)
Lockerbie to Hamilton (Glasgow)
Day miles 62
Total miles 639
To go c 336
A bit of a disaster today.
I've ridden for a few years in London, on some quite dangerous roads, and never even had a near miss. I've freewheeled at 35mph down rain-sodden mountain roads without a wobble. On Saturday at 8.30am I was riding along a deserted road, and diverted on to a cycle path alongside it. Across that path was a side road, which probably had one car an hour on it. The one car this hour arrived at the junction at the same time as me, coming along the cycle path with restricted view because of trees, and in the rain. I slammed on the brakes, the back wheel skidded, the front wheel locked and buckled, and I went over the handlebars. The car stopped well before it might have hit me, and in fact I stopped before the road, so the chances of a collision were small, but you make the decision to brake instantly.
So I had a buggered front wheel, and also a slightly bust left arm. I've previously had problems with this arm - I broke my elbow when I was 17, but the fracture wasn't noticed for about 3 years, after I'd dislocated it a few times, so it's always been weak. Landing on my outstretched arm as I did has definitely jarred the elbow. I'll have to see when I get back whether there's any deeper damage.
There was a house nearby with a very nice old man who agree to look after my bike and panniers while I hitched a lift into Dumfries for a new wheel. Luckily I was right on the junction with the Dumfries road, and even more luckily within 2 minutes of trying to hitch a car came by with two bikes on the roof rack - they were mountain bikers on their way to Dumfries. They gave me a very quick lift into town, I got a new wheel, and then a bus back to where my bike was.
Then the day got worse.Horrendous, blustery, showery weather all day, crosswinds, headwinds, hailstones in my face, everything. Dodgy knee, dodgy arm, a strained achilles tendon...it was a hell of a slog. By the time I got to Hamilton I'd already decided I wasn't going into Glasgow centre, never mind my original plan of getting beyond it up Loch Lomond, and I was considering altering my route drastically. I found a decent hotel on my route and checked in early, quite battered.
Amusingly, I got held up on the route by a young boys march (all big drums and flutes), with guys wearing 'No surrender' shirts. I think it was in Larkhall. The police wouldn't let me (or about 30 cars behind me) overtake the march, and I thought cycling through them might be a bit provocative...
So, a change of plan. Instead of going west via Loch Lomond, Glencoe and Fort William, I'd go east via Perth. That would save me about 45 miles, supposedly the weather was a bit better on the east side, and the hills not so extreme.
Day Nine (Sun 20/05/07)
Hamilton to Pitlochry
Day miles 100 (!)
Total miles 739
To go c 230
From the trip's worst day to the best. It didn't start off well. I woke up feeling bruised, and had a lie in (until 7.15am!), and the first hour or so on the road was very painful. I had aches or pains in my left elbow, left knee, left achilles, which made pedalling hard, and right wrist, which made changing gear hard. A tubigrip on the elbow and some ralgex on elbow and ankle helped things, as did the lack of traffic in the Glasgow suburbs early on a Sunday morning. I worked my way round via Motherwell and Airdrie (I only know these places as football teams), up past Cumbernauld, then got onto the Clyde and Forth canal, which was about 8 miles of flat towpath that took me towards Falkirk. Past the elegant Falkirk Wheel (I should link to it but don't have time), then towards the Kincardine Bridge.The weather brightened up significantly, and the road towards Perth was flat through countryside similar to Kent. My various pains were largely gone, although I couldn't put so much pressure on my left foot or left arm.
Out of Perth it's the A9 all the way to Wick. It's a pretty bog standard busy A road, very fast and unpleasant for cyclists, but parts of it do have NCN cycle routes. I took a diversion off, then took a break to try to sort my gears out. The rear derailleur wasn't finding one of the gears - the problem was actually in the handlebar thumbshift, which was worn out, but I didn't know that, and messed around with the gear cable (under expert telephone guidance from R), and ended up with a frayed cable I couldn't reattach. Had to lock the gears down and cycle the 15 miles into Pitlochry in one gear (well, 3 because of the front gears, but one of them is only useful when going downhill at 25mph)
That didn't matter so much as the ride into Pitlochry was stunning. I went through Dunkeld, a small town on the Tay, then followed an NCN cycle route from there to Pitlochry. It went through the forest and alongside the Tay for several miles, and it must be one of the most beautiful places in Britain I've been to. The weather was perfect, early evening, strong sun, and it was very peaceful - I came across a clearing cloaked with bluebells, which I'm sure my pic won't do justice to.
I got into Pitlochry quite late, having made 100 miles for the day, and found a B&B. This was a favourite Victorian resort town, so there are lots of old Victorian houses which are now hotels and B&Bs. My landlady generously gave me £20 in sponsorship (she's a Boer, and responded to me explaining what MSF do in Africa, although I wasn't touting for sponsorship, so it was a nice surprise)
Porridge and a fry-up including haggis this morning, although a late start due to getting the bike fixed, and updating this (I hope it works) A long ride to Inverness, 85 miles on the road, 101 miles on the cycle route. I'll probably get there late, but I may be able to phone ahead and reserve a room somewhere if I'm sure I can make it. Then it's the final run up to JoG.
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